Outrigger Canoe Paddles
Palafamala – Hybrid Outrigger Canoe Paddle – Ozone Built
Pala Paddle: For paddling OC1, OC2, OC6
PALA LENGTH AND BLADE OPTIONS
Length: 44″ – 54″
Blade size: 9″-10″
Choosing blade width comes down to resistance. How much resistance do you want on your blade?
The basic rule is to not pull your paddle back but instead pull the canoe forward. It really comes down to your strength and experience level. You’ll want to have enough blade to be able to hold the pressure without slipping while having enough strength to maintain a desired pace.
To keep it simple, the 9.25 is usually used for OC1 and the 9.75 is usually used for OC6 and the 9.5 is safe to use for both.
Pala Steer: For Steering OC6
Style: Double Bend or Straight
Shaft, Bend, and Size
This is the traditional steering blade set at 5 degrees. This degree allows for instant control of the canoe when “J-stroking”. It also allows you to have easy control of the blade when screaming down a wave or locking down a turn in regattas.
The blade on the double bend is set at 7 degrees. This allows the steersman to blend in better with their crew when paddling. The double bend also allows you to relax your bottom wrist and pull at a stronger angle. If you are used to paddling with a double bend then steering with one will make you feel like more of a paddler. This blade is good for bottom grabbers and one handed pokers since it is easier to keep the blade flush to the hull by letting go of the T top.
When ordering your steering blade don’t forget to take into consideration that the blade is 22” long. You will want to make sure that you have the shaft length that you need to maintain the arm span that you are used to.
The blade options are 9.25, 9.5, and 9.75. This is measured horizontally at the widest point of the teardrop. Soon we will have a 4th smaller option at 9×17 for those looking for event less resistance in the catch.
Poplar and Basswood have been the standard shaft materials for years but we searched for something better. After many different woods and layups we ended up using Poplar for the stringer and Vertical Grain Sitka Spruce for the sides. We found this to be the best for weight, strength and flex.
The darker wood on the upper part of the shaft is Western Red Cedar. We use it to add contrasts and beauty while maintaining good weight.
The carbon sleeve in the shaft is not needed for strength. The shaft alone is strong enough. The carbon helps the shaft from getting dings or wear from rings etc. Some paddlers look at carbon and instantly think it’s going to be too stiff but realistically there is plenty flex.
I made my T tops to be comfortable. I used to hand shape all of these using Cedar for the beauty and the lightweight. It ended up being too soft and would dent easily. I moved on to Basswood that was harder and painted it black since there was no pretty grain. It still wasn’t as durable as I would like. Michael Giblin took my design and made a super light, durable, carbon T top. I am super happy with it.
A video sharing the background of the paddle shaper and the family that shaped a paddler